NYC: Tieguanyin at Cha An

Of the many teas served at Cha An, it's the presentation of two specific Oolong Teas: Tieguanyin and Twelve Trees, that catch marveling oohs and ahhs of neighboring diners. Diana and I had dinner at Cha An this evening. It's a frequent meeting spot of ours and we always leave utterly satisfied. Tonight Tieguanyin was my tea of choice, presented to the table with a flourish and precise directions from the waitress.

There are seven components.
First. A large silver pitcher of hot water.
Second. Bamboo tray with a water catching basin.
Third. Teacup
Fourth. Tall and narrow sniffing cup.
Fifth. Mini wooden tong.
Six. Mini Yixing teapot.
Seven. Glass teapot + sieve.

And that's only the beginning. It's not a complicated process, but one that requires full attention. And that's what I love. For once, no multitasking is allowed! First, pour the hot water from the pitcher into the yixing teapot. Steep precisely 15 seconds. Then pour into the glass teapot.

Do not drink the first pour. Instead pour the tea over the surface of the yixing teapot. This is necessary to keep the teapot warm and open up the tea leaves.

Repeat those steps. Only this time, instead of pouring tea over the yixing teapot, pour it into the teacup, and the remainder into the sniffing cup. Let it sit in the sniffing cup for 10 seconds, then pour over the yixing teapot (to keep it warm again). At this point, we were handed the empty but warm sniffing cup. The waitress motioned for us to smell as one may best sniff out different elements of the tea in a tall and narrow cup.

And now, you can drink! Tieguanyin is a well known Chinese tea, but the one served at Cha An is from Taiwan. It's a delicate tea, bordering on flowery, and a haunting sweetness. The name breaks down to Tie Guan Yin, with Tie translating to Iron, and Guan Yin to the Goddess of Mercy. Beautiful, no? I mentioned that the first wash was necessary to loosen the tea leaves, and if you see the leaves in person, you'll understand why. They're very tiny, tight-knit balls - it took five cups to completely open the leaves, and to watch them unravel just a bit with each pour was mesmerizing. The tea is $10 a serving, which some have remarked as pricey. But considering that they offer unlimited hot water refills, and never rush guests, I'd say it's a fair price.

And now, back to reality! Lovely, one hour of peace on a Monday evening, completely transported. I just might have to indulge in this affair more frequently.

Cha-An
230 E 9th Street
New York, 10003
(212) 228-8030