Monday, January 24, 2011

Hawai'i: Sunday Night Dinners

"Stinky Noodles"

Sunday dinners in Hawai'i means family gathered around grandma's table. Her long oval table seats eight, enough overflow for four more with chairs from the patio table. The number of people at each dinner varies, but you can always count on my presence.

Fish Stomach and Fish Ball Soup

Grandma goes to the temple in the mornings and comes back early afternoon to start prepping dinner. The meals come from a repertoire of about thirty dishes she cooks on a regular basis. It's an impressive number, and what's even more impressive is that even in her 80s, she still does everything herself. Shopping, cooking and cleaning. Offer to help and she'll immediately turn you down.

Grandma is famous among relatives for her Shark Fin Soup, which she makes twice a year: Christmas Eve and Chinese New Years. Here she separates big cuts of pork out of the broth. All the flavors of the pork is now in the soup and there is no point to keeping the meat. This is very good news for Buddy the dog who loves nothing more than these "pork scraps!"

This is the Sharks Fin...

...and the complete soup ladled into individual bowl. A splash of red vinegar, white pepper and cilantro, and this is how we celebrate the holidays. It's considered a "lucky" soup meant to bring health and prosperity.

The soup is followed by a parade of dishes. This may include a hot plate of Fishcake Stuffed Peppers. She makes the fishcake paste from scratch, stuffs it into halved green peppers and and pan-fries till well browned on each side. Most of the peppers are sweet, but every once in awhile you'll bite into a crazy hot pepper that stings you for all of dinner. The fishcake paste is seasoned with nuoc nam, salt, and plenty of pepper.

You won't want to miss dinner if Spring Rolls are on the agenda. Shaved taro, shrimp, pork, vermicelli and wood ear mushrooms all make their way into each roll.

Frying time. Grandpa built an outdoor stove/grill in the backyard so anything that needs to be grilled or deep-fried can be done outdoors. The ventilation in her kitchen isn't the best, so this is really a lifesaver.

Ready for the dinner table!

Everyone gets their own bowl of nuoc nam. The nuoc nam is mom's recipe and she makes it by the gallon every other week.

Tuck the spring roll, noodles, and sliced cucumbers in lettuce, roll up and dip in nuoc nam....I can easily eat a dozen in a sitting.

Sometimes we have noodle soups as the main course - my favourite of these dishes is chou boun, which translates to Stinky Noodles. Shrimp paste is blended into the broth making for a very pungent meal. Served with sliced pork and shrimp.

For dessert, we've come to count on mochi balls in a sweet ginger soup. Young ginger, skinned and sliced, boiled in water, with palm sugar to sweeten. Grandma brings it to the table in one large pot and we ladle it out. Sometimes she prepares black sesame dumplings in ginger soup. Or pairs the plain mochi balls in an azuki bean soup.

At the end of the night, everyone is sent home with a little something for breakfast the next day. More often than not, it is this noodle dish that translates to Mouse Tail Soup. A clear pork-based broth, with chubby pork meatballs. The dish is so named for the short and round noodles which are tapered at the end and resemble mouse tails. What a very fine way to start Monday morning.

Friday, January 21, 2011

Sugar Rush'ed...

...for the week at Serious Eats New York.

Plus my new 'Afternoon Tea' column which will run bi-monthly. We're starting off with the very charming Podunk in the East Village. 'Lunch for One' at Bo Ky and Olio Pizza e Più this week. Happy Friday!

Lunch for One: Shrimp Rolls and Satay at Bo Ky...

...Satay, after a mix!

Sugar Rush: Kam Hing Coffee Shop's Sponge Cake

Sugar Rush: Marshmallows from Butter Baked Goods

Lunch for One: Mezzaluna at Olio Pizza e Più

Afternoon Tea: Podunk

Sugar Rush: Loaf Cakes at Peels

Sugar Rush: Cacao Prieto

TGI Fry-Day: Bacon and Mozzarella Fries at Stand

Sugar Rush: Peach Jam at Blue Hill Cafe

Thursday, January 20, 2011

Hawai'i: Plate Lunch Time at Pioneer Saloon

Lunch time in Honolulu.

I have Farida to thank for introducing me to Pioneer Saloon this past December. This order at the counter, pick a seat spot is on the same breezy stretch of Monsarrat Avenue that houses Diamond Head Market (aka home to amazing blueberry scones).

Pioneer Saloon is plate lunch with Japanese sensibilities. Which means more greens and less mac salad. Or at least less mayo when they do have mac salad. It means more fish, more seafood in general (including ahi and tako), and less hamburger steak and loco mocos.

They do however, turn out a mean Chicken Katsu Plate, complete with a lightly battered crust and plenty of fatty, easy-to-love dark meat. No extra change for brown rice, which is rare in Hawai'i. The single side dish changes daily, and I've had pasta salad, plain green salad, and potato salad in the past.

If you're a fish person, they also make a Salmon Katsu Plate using salmon belly. The whole thing just melts in your mouth, all steamy hot and moist on the inside. Your choice of tartar sauce or katsu sauce. Certainly enough for lunch and afternoon snack.

Prices average between $6-$10 a plate, a solid deal for the quantity of food. Daily specials posted on a board outside - enough variety so that everyone leaves satisfied. I enjoyed it here so much on my first visit that I brought my grandparents and parents for separate lunch trips.

Grandma is big on salmon, but doesn't like fried foods so she comes for the Garlic Salmon Plate. You can get the salmon done with miso, garlic, or shio (simply salted). Be warned, the garlic version is pungent!

This is Farida's fried Tako Plate Lunch - didn't get to try it, but it looks mighty ono. They were sold out when I came back the following day...will have to wait for my next trip home. Served with furikake rice and pasta salad.

What I like about their Salmon Flakes and Avocado plate is that they mix a ton of fresh chopped shiso with salmon and diced avocado. Served on a bed of furikake rice. It's easy enough to make at home, and I've replicated it few times, usually replacing the rice with somen noodles. Mixed greens and pasta salad in the back. $8 for this plate. If only I could find such deals in Manhattan...

The interior is all warehouse-like, rustic, mismatched furniture. Almost too cool. Big tables, small tables, even couches. Someone noted, "surfer chic" when describing Pioneer Saloon to a friend. And I think they come pretty darn close.

Pioneer Saloon
3046 Monsarrat Avenue
Honolulu, HI 96815
(808) 732-4001