Showing posts with label Hawaii. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hawaii. Show all posts

Monday, January 24, 2011

Hawai'i: Sunday Night Dinners

"Stinky Noodles"

Sunday dinners in Hawai'i means family gathered around grandma's table. Her long oval table seats eight, enough overflow for four more with chairs from the patio table. The number of people at each dinner varies, but you can always count on my presence.

Fish Stomach and Fish Ball Soup

Grandma goes to the temple in the mornings and comes back early afternoon to start prepping dinner. The meals come from a repertoire of about thirty dishes she cooks on a regular basis. It's an impressive number, and what's even more impressive is that even in her 80s, she still does everything herself. Shopping, cooking and cleaning. Offer to help and she'll immediately turn you down.

Grandma is famous among relatives for her Shark Fin Soup, which she makes twice a year: Christmas Eve and Chinese New Years. Here she separates big cuts of pork out of the broth. All the flavors of the pork is now in the soup and there is no point to keeping the meat. This is very good news for Buddy the dog who loves nothing more than these "pork scraps!"

This is the Sharks Fin...

...and the complete soup ladled into individual bowl. A splash of red vinegar, white pepper and cilantro, and this is how we celebrate the holidays. It's considered a "lucky" soup meant to bring health and prosperity.

The soup is followed by a parade of dishes. This may include a hot plate of Fishcake Stuffed Peppers. She makes the fishcake paste from scratch, stuffs it into halved green peppers and and pan-fries till well browned on each side. Most of the peppers are sweet, but every once in awhile you'll bite into a crazy hot pepper that stings you for all of dinner. The fishcake paste is seasoned with nuoc nam, salt, and plenty of pepper.

You won't want to miss dinner if Spring Rolls are on the agenda. Shaved taro, shrimp, pork, vermicelli and wood ear mushrooms all make their way into each roll.

Frying time. Grandpa built an outdoor stove/grill in the backyard so anything that needs to be grilled or deep-fried can be done outdoors. The ventilation in her kitchen isn't the best, so this is really a lifesaver.

Ready for the dinner table!

Everyone gets their own bowl of nuoc nam. The nuoc nam is mom's recipe and she makes it by the gallon every other week.

Tuck the spring roll, noodles, and sliced cucumbers in lettuce, roll up and dip in nuoc nam....I can easily eat a dozen in a sitting.

Sometimes we have noodle soups as the main course - my favourite of these dishes is chou boun, which translates to Stinky Noodles. Shrimp paste is blended into the broth making for a very pungent meal. Served with sliced pork and shrimp.

For dessert, we've come to count on mochi balls in a sweet ginger soup. Young ginger, skinned and sliced, boiled in water, with palm sugar to sweeten. Grandma brings it to the table in one large pot and we ladle it out. Sometimes she prepares black sesame dumplings in ginger soup. Or pairs the plain mochi balls in an azuki bean soup.

At the end of the night, everyone is sent home with a little something for breakfast the next day. More often than not, it is this noodle dish that translates to Mouse Tail Soup. A clear pork-based broth, with chubby pork meatballs. The dish is so named for the short and round noodles which are tapered at the end and resemble mouse tails. What a very fine way to start Monday morning.

Thursday, January 20, 2011

Hawai'i: Plate Lunch Time at Pioneer Saloon

Lunch time in Honolulu.

I have Farida to thank for introducing me to Pioneer Saloon this past December. This order at the counter, pick a seat spot is on the same breezy stretch of Monsarrat Avenue that houses Diamond Head Market (aka home to amazing blueberry scones).

Pioneer Saloon is plate lunch with Japanese sensibilities. Which means more greens and less mac salad. Or at least less mayo when they do have mac salad. It means more fish, more seafood in general (including ahi and tako), and less hamburger steak and loco mocos.

They do however, turn out a mean Chicken Katsu Plate, complete with a lightly battered crust and plenty of fatty, easy-to-love dark meat. No extra change for brown rice, which is rare in Hawai'i. The single side dish changes daily, and I've had pasta salad, plain green salad, and potato salad in the past.

If you're a fish person, they also make a Salmon Katsu Plate using salmon belly. The whole thing just melts in your mouth, all steamy hot and moist on the inside. Your choice of tartar sauce or katsu sauce. Certainly enough for lunch and afternoon snack.

Prices average between $6-$10 a plate, a solid deal for the quantity of food. Daily specials posted on a board outside - enough variety so that everyone leaves satisfied. I enjoyed it here so much on my first visit that I brought my grandparents and parents for separate lunch trips.

Grandma is big on salmon, but doesn't like fried foods so she comes for the Garlic Salmon Plate. You can get the salmon done with miso, garlic, or shio (simply salted). Be warned, the garlic version is pungent!

This is Farida's fried Tako Plate Lunch - didn't get to try it, but it looks mighty ono. They were sold out when I came back the following day...will have to wait for my next trip home. Served with furikake rice and pasta salad.

What I like about their Salmon Flakes and Avocado plate is that they mix a ton of fresh chopped shiso with salmon and diced avocado. Served on a bed of furikake rice. It's easy enough to make at home, and I've replicated it few times, usually replacing the rice with somen noodles. Mixed greens and pasta salad in the back. $8 for this plate. If only I could find such deals in Manhattan...

The interior is all warehouse-like, rustic, mismatched furniture. Almost too cool. Big tables, small tables, even couches. Someone noted, "surfer chic" when describing Pioneer Saloon to a friend. And I think they come pretty darn close.

Pioneer Saloon
3046 Monsarrat Avenue
Honolulu, HI 96815
(808) 732-4001

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Hawai'i: Cinnamon's Restaurant

Breakfast or dessert?

I'll never know. For now, it suffices as both. Cinnamon's in Kailua turns out the most creative pancakes on the island with a rooster that includes carrot cake, cinnamon-apple, and daily specials of pumpkin and strawberry cream. The Guava Chiffon Pancakes start with a base of the house hot buttermilk pancakes. Two for $6.25, four for $9.25. It appears to be a sugar fest, but is actually fairly restrained, the sauces not overly gloppy nor sugary. There are two types of sauce. One creamy, borderline fluffy. And the other, thin, glossy with a fruity guava tang. Whipped cream to top. It's not often I say this, but maple syrup and butter are certainly not needed.

Take a look at these Apple Cinnamon Pancakes. Same tall and fluffy buttermilk pancakes, this time with a tower (literally) of sautéed cinnamon apples and whipped cream.

The Blueberry and Corn Pancakes come with Hawaiian Honey Butter. The butter is the highlight of this dish, a soft golden shade, whipped with a bit of cinnamon. Make sure to order a side of the honey butter if you get the plain pancakes, it makes for a simple, satisfying pairing.

Of all the flavors Cinnamon has to offer, the Carrot Cake is my favourite. It's the heartiest, the least sweet with generous gratings of fresh carrots and plump black raisins folded into the pancake batter. To the right is whipped cream cheese butter...are there any four words that string together this nicely? Smother on the cakes while hot and let melt, beautiful! Finish with plain butter and you'll have everyone at the table chasing for a bite. They don't use the buttermilk pancake base - the carrot cake pancakes are more dense, still moist but not fluffy, and noticeably smaller in diameter. Which means you have room for more.

The eternal breakfast debate is pancake versus French toast. It's on a case by case basis, but at Cinnamon's, pancakes win in the end. That's not to say that you should pass on their French Toast, a reliable affair made with fat slices of Portuguese Sweet Bread (this practice needs to be adopted on the mainland). Have the French toast plain ($6.25), or pick a topping (additional $2.25): Apple-Cinnamon, Guava Chiffon, or the daily special which was Strawberry and Local Fruits shown above.

Should the taste for something savory cross your mind at Cinnamon's, you're in good hands. The Egg Benedicts alone are worth a visit, complete with a mound of crisp homefries, liberally salt and pepper-ed with a tangle of chopped green onions. The benedicts come in six styles:

Traditional...Canadian bacon and turkey
Veggie...fresh, raw spinach and tomatoes
Mahi Mahi
Crabcake
Kalua Pig...made in-house
Lox

The portion is big - you can have half-orders, but it's not worth it. $10.25 for a half, $13.25 for a full order, see what I mean? I like to come with one other person, and split the full benedict, and a small pancake order. Ideal balance of sweet and savory.

Many tourists order the Hawaiian Omelette, which sounds cheesy, but is also my go-to omelette at Cinnamon's. The ingredients are mixed into beaten eggs (three eggs per omelette) and then cooked in a skillet, making for what they call a "local style" omelette. This one is mixed with shredded Kalua Pig, tomatoes, white and green onions, and Lau-Lau (steamed lu'au leaves, pork, and butterfish). The omelette would benefit from more Lau-Lau - you get mostly lu'au leaves and very little pork and butterfish. But then again more Lau-Lau means price hike, and Cinnamon's is expensive enough. Comes with hash browns or home fries or buttermilk pancakes. Not the most attractive omelette, but still ono.

Cinnamon’s Restaurant
315 Uluniu St
Kailua, HI 96734
(808) 261-8724

Monday, January 17, 2011

Recipe: Baking: Pâté So / Pâté Chaud

Happy Monday! Hope everyone had a good weekend. Remember when I posted about the Pâté So (also goes by the name Pâté Chaud) from JJ's French Pastry in Honolulu?

We ate a lot of those during my last trip home. Breakfast, lunch, snack...I ate two a day over the course of my ten-day stay, and soon realized that my daily Pâté So expenditure bordered on ridiculous.

Why not learn to make my own right?

Pâté So is essentially puff pastry filled with ground pork. The pork is mixed with celery, vermicelli noodles, onions, salt and pepper. It's a forgiving recipe, just don't leave out the nuoc nam, which is an essential component! I made a big batch because we had family over for Grandpa's birthday dinner, and dad thought it would be fun to serve them hot out of the oven as pupus. We replaced pork with chicken because Grandpa's doctor suggested that he lay off pork for health reasons ;)


Pâté So / Pâté Chaud
1 package puff pastry sheets, defrosted (I used Pepperidge Farm puff pastry sheets - but it's worth making your own puff pastry if you have time)
1 pound ground pork (or chicken, but I prefer pork)
1/2 cup finely chopped celery
1/2 cup vermicelli noodles (soak in warm water until softened, then cut into 1-inch long pieces)
1 small yellow onion, diced
1 tablespoon nuoc nam
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons pepper

1. Preheat oven to 400F. In a big bowl, mix together the ground pork, celery, chopped vermicelli noodles, onions, nuoc nam, salt and pepper.

2. Roll out the puff pastry sheet to a rectangle, about 16" x 12". Cut in half to make two 16" x 6" rectangles. Put a quarter of the ground pork mixture on one of the rectangles, spreading across the bottom half of the 16" side. Lift the unfilled side, fold over and close. Use fork tines to press along the edges, making sure it's securely sealed.

3. Do the same for the other puff pastry sheets, making for a total of four Pâté So "logs." (If you use the Pepperidge Farm puff pastry sheets, note that the package comes with two sheets, which makes for a total of four rectangles).

4. Make deep cuts along the log, 1" apart. This will make it easier for you to cut and serve once done baking. Brush with a beaten egg wash, and slide in the oven.

5. Bake for 25 minutes at 400F, until it has a deep golden brown shade. Cut and serve while hot!

Notes:
- Leftovers keep well, just pop in the toaster oven for a few minutes to warm up.
- This makes a killer late night snack with beer.
- Inside of a log, you can do individual rectangles (like they do at JJ's French Pastry). You'll want to cut the pork mixture down by half because you won't have as much puff pastry "space" to work with if you're making individual rectangles.

Enjoy!

Monday, January 3, 2011

Hawai'i: A Little Tea Party...

Tuesday afternoon. Honolulu, Hawai'i.

[photo from Steph's Flickr]

My intention was to have a small tea party for six (that's all the dining table seats!), but it wound up being more of a little lunch get together as opposed to proper afternoon tea.

[photo from Steph's Flickr]

But really, with good friends and good food, the subject of tea versus lunch doesn't matter much.

Kelly picked me up in the morning and we stopped at Sconees in Kaimuki for...
...Lilikoi Bars. A buttery shortbread base, baked lilikoi custard/curd. Tart and sweet. These are actually two big bars we cut into bite-sized pieces.
We wanted to get scones, but were side tracked by everything else like the warm banana bread and cornbread, and don't forget the...
...Cheese Pockets. They have five different fillings so we just got a mix of everything: Lemon, Blueberry, Strawberry, Apple and Lilikoi. The cream cheese is incorporated into the dough, similar to rugelach, only these are much more butter-rich.

Next we drove to Manoa for Andy's Sandwiches. Sounds familiar? It should if you've remember this post. Andy's is my go-to sandwich spot in Hawai'i. Exactly what you'd expect and picture a neighborhood sandwich shop to be.

Low prices, sandwiches made to order, friendly people, always delicious (and also really good muffins!). We ordered six sandwiches, I don't remember the exact combination, but they included a mix of:

- roast beef
- avocado
- ahi spread
- turkey
- lettuce, tomatoes, cheese and onions
- and of course, a sprinkle of Andy's extra secret spice mix ;)

Darien came with a mix of teas and chocolate cookies, and then Steph had a sweet something from Kaneohe Bakery...
...Pumpkin Custard Pie! Wonderfully wobbly, eggy and so fresh!

Marie brought Manapuas from Royal Kitchen...we split them all in half, and I scored a Char Siu and Chicken Curry. Boy, I miss having easy access to Manapuas...put that on list of things we take for granted in Hawai'i! An hour before everyone arrived I realized there was only ONE tea pot at home - thank you to Alicia for bringing an extra...otherwise I'd have served juice or something heheh.

Cheers to a good week!

Sconees
1117 12th Avenue
Honolulu, Hawai'i 96816
(808) 734-4024

Andy's Sandwiches & Smoothies
2904 East Manoa Road
Honolulu, Hawai'i 96822
(808) 988-6161

Kaneohe Bakery
45-1026 Kamehameha Highway
Kaneohe, Hawai'i 96744
(808) 247-0474

Royal Kitchen

100 N Beretania Street
Honolulu, Hawai'i 96817
(808) 524-4461

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Hawai'i: Time for Goûter!

Pâté So at JJ Bistro & French Pastry

I snack more in Hawai'i than I do in NYC. It might be because my parents tend to keep copious, Costco-sized amounts of food in the kitchen and I've set up my makeshift office at the breakfast table. Or the fact that mom uses my visits home as an reason to purchase more snacks, "oh Kathy, I stopped by xxx bakery this morning, thought you might like xxx and xxx. AND I bought a few extra xxx because I know you can't get that in NYC, right?"

But I'm not complaining, oh no :) A few extra holiday pounds doesn't hurt. Awhile ago, Monsieur P introduced me to the notion of goûter, the traditional afternoon snack in France. And since then I've used every afternoon as an excuse for my between lunch and dinner indulgences. In Hawai'i I have goûter at 2pm, 3pm, and 4pm! After all, we're on vacation.

Here's what I've been munching on...
JJ's French Bistro and Pastry in Kaimuki is most popular for their Chocolate Pyramid, which they have in every size ranging from giant birthday cake single biters for $.95. But the main reason mom stops by JJ's so often is for the Pâté So ($2.50 each). It's pretty difficult to find Pâté So in Hawai'i (a few places I know in Chinatown make them to order), but JJ's makes the best, and also most reliable ones. This was a popular snack in Vietnam where my parents grew up, and they'll never turn down an offer of Pâté So. The puff pastry is stuffed with a mix of ground pork, fish sauce, onions, and black pepper. My aunt likes to use a mix of chicken and pork, with wood ear mushrooms. Sometimes she adds vermicelli noodles as well. So many options!

These Ham Rolls used to be $1.10 each when I worked at Saint Germain in high school. It was my first "real job," and my manager hated me for reasons still unknown. But that was ok because I befriended the baker and he packed me a freezer bag full of Ham Rolls at the end of each work shift. The Ham Rolls are now $1.90 each, and I'm still in love with them. Soft sweet white bread, rolled with plenty of mayonnaise and a twirl of ham. They used to top the roll with cilantro, but did away with that two years ago...now I bring my own cilantro to add!

Dad's friend has a farm on the other side of the island and one of his employees makes these incredible sweets of Steamed Coconut Sticky Rice and Apple-Bananas. Take a look at the inside...
...^_^. They brought over a dozen to our house the other night and we devoured them in two days. The Apple-Banana is cut in long thin slices and tucked in the middle of the coconut milk-soaked rice.

Inside Palama Market (near the Korean plate lunches) is a bakery counter that carries just a few items including this barely sweet Black Sesame Mochi Bread. It's sold by the 3-pack for $4. Super chewy, soft and pockmarked with plenty toasted black sesame seeds. When someone call out "mochi bread time," at home, it's dad's cue put on the tea, and then we all gather round the kitchen counter for goûter!

I have yet to make it to V Lounge, but am already a fan of their pizza based off leftovers mom and dad brought home yesterday. Still have to go there to try the Margarita. Check out their menu here, the pies have a beautiful char, unlike any other pizza I've had in Hawai'i. V Lounge is just as pricey as Motorino and Keste in NYC. Crazy, right? Above is the Prima Pizza ($16), topped with, "Pancetta Di San Daniele, locally grown sweet onions, Hamakua Ali'i oyster mushrooms, thyme, parsley, fresh homemade mozzarella, local egg, and truffle oil." Now that is truly drool worthy. I think we're actually going there for dinner tonight...

Hope everyone is enjoying the week!

P.S. Buddy says 'hello'!
Poor fellow caught a cold last week...achooo! He's getting so old - 13 years now. Right leg still busted, but he's in good spirits. Merry Christmas!

JJ's French Bistro and Pastry
3447 Waialae Ave
Honolulu, HI 96816
(808) 739-0993

Saint Germain
Multiple Locations

Palama Market
1670 Makaloa Street
Honolulu, HI 96814
(808) 447-7705

V Lounge

1344 Kona Street
Honolulu HI, 96814
(808) 953-0007