Sunday, February 6, 2011

NYC: Classes and Mozzarella Making at Murray's Cheese

Yesterday I made pesto "pizza" for lunch with puff pastry I had in the freezer. I make a big batch of puff pastry dough each month and freeze it in 8-ounce potions, each one perfect for a meal or duo of apple turnovers. For the pizza, all I do is roll out the dough to 1/4-inch thick and bake for 15-minutes at 375F. Remove from oven and top with a lot of pesto and mozzarella. Back to the oven for 10 minutes at 400F and ta-dah, lunch is served.

Monsieur P is crazy about this pizza, and sometimes we add sausage or pepperoni. Everything is usually store bought, but yesterday was different. Different because...I made the mozzarella!

I've always wanted to learn how to make mozzarella, and finally had a chance last week. Murray's Cheese (my neighborhood cheese shop), hosts cheese classes on subjects ranging from cheese cave tours to mozzarella making, and even a weekend cheese "boot camp." I've written about Murray's numerous times - it's not just a cheese shop, but also my grocery store, bakery and dessert shop! And because Monsieur P insists that our fridge be fully stocked with a variety of cheeses at all time (who am I to argue), you bet I pass through Murray's on a daily basis.

The Mozzarella Making ($100/class) starts with a tasting of five types of fresh cheeses. Clockwise from the top: Lioni Mozzarella Curd, Lioni Lightly Salted Mozzarella, Mozzarella di Bufala, Burrata, and Lioni Smoked Mozzarella. Our instructor, Sascha walked us though each step of how to smell, taste, and feel the cheese, explaining the process of making each cheese and how they were different. My favourite? The burrata...but you already knew that. We had our own tasting plates, and shared communal baskets of Tom Cat baguette slices, and plates of...

...marcona almonds, dried cherries, walnuts, and dried apricots. Oh yes, and generously refilled glasses of prosecco and red wine!

After the fresh cheese tasting we took a short break and came back for the hard stuff. We were walked though the cheese-making process and "studied" molecular diagrams of milk acidification. I had a little too much prosecco to fully digest the diagrams, but that's why everyone had a copy to take home ;)

Next we were given a big bowl of cheese curds...

...you pour warm water over the curds and let it sit. After a few minutes, break apart the largest curd. You want the temperature of the inside to be the same as the outside. I had to add more hot water to mine before reaching that stage. From there, begin to press the curds together until you form one solid piece. Then flatten and pull so that you get a long rectangle. Roll up like a croissant and fold the two "sides" under the center of the roll.

Next, make an "ok" sign with your hand and push the cheese through the "hole" of the "ok" sign, tucking the ugly end parts underneath and into the center of the ball. I was actually surprised at how easy the whole process was...let's see how it goes when I try to remake this at home!

We each took home our mozzarella creation and a container of fresh cheese curds to make a second batch. You can't freeze fresh cheese but you can freeze cheese curds. And that's just what I did...planning to save it for next weekend when I can do a fresh batch of pesto pizza.

I enjoyed it so much that I came back the following evening for Cheese 101 ($50/class), taught by Liz, the VP of Murray's Cheese. This class was a bit shorter, clocking in at 1.5-hours as opposed to 2-hours for the mozzarella class. But it's also half the price. It was an excellent "foundation" class, and even though I consider myself to be fairly knowledgeable about cheese, there was still lots to learn. We were equipped with the same arsenal of prosecco, red wine, baguettes and fruits and nuts. Most people at the class were there as couples or groups of friends, but I had plenty fun attending on my own.

Clockwise from top: Petit Billy, Sweet Grass Green Hill, Tomme du Berger, Garrotxa, Adelegger, and Bavarian Blue. The plate goes from soft to firm, light to intense, and we were given the history and background to each cheese. We were also taught how each cheese is grouped into a "family." The Petit Billy goes in the Fresh family, Sweet Grass Green Hill in the Bloomy family, Tomme du Berger in Washed Rind, Garrotxa (and La Serena) in Pressed, Adelegger in the Cooked-Pressed family, and finally Bavarian Blue in the Blue family.

We also tasted a bonus cheese, La Serena from Spain. It's a raw sheep milk cheese made using wild thistles to coagulate the curd. We passed around a big disc of La Serena and literally spooned the cheese onto our plates. It has this supple, lovely pudding-like texture, and the most intense vegetal taste, reminiscent of bitter greens. We had it with bread, but was told that it's pretty amazing when paired with chorizo. Oh how I can imagine!! (I had dinner at Hearth the following evening and felt so the expert when I spotted La Serena on the cheese menu, heheh).

They offer a ton of classes, many focused on pairings such as wine and cheese, beer and cheese, and even a jam and cheese class. As for myself? I've got eyes on the Mystery of the Caves tour and...hello Cheese Boot Camp!

Hope everyone is having a good weekend!

Murray's Cheese
254 Bleecker Street
New York, 10014
(212) 243-3289

Friday, February 4, 2011

Sugar Rush'ed...

...for the week at Serious Eats New York. Plus 'Afternoon Tea' at the Crosby Street Hotel, and 'Lunch for One' at Rubirosa in Soho and M. Wells in Long Island City.

Lunch for One: M. Wells...Seared Foie Gras and Scallion Oil on Pullman Toast (it's only $10!) and...
...Escargots and Bone Marrow with shallots and red wine purée ($9). Here's the menu for M. Wells. This place is definitely work making a trip out to Long Island City...preferably on a weekday when the wait isn't too crazy.

Sugar Rush: Michel et Augustin. Dean & Deluca's recently started to stock biscuits and bars from Michel et Augustin, a brand I first learned about in Paris last year. I'm crazy about these cookies and am very, very happy to purchase them locally! The above box is $3 each for six mini-biscuits.
Petits sablés tout chocolat et cacao / Chocolate butter biscuits; Petits sablés au pavot et à la vanille / Poppy seed and vanilla butter biscuits; Petits sablés aux gouttes de chocolat / Chocolate chip butter biscuits.
They make many other products including these bars that are a cross between shortbread and chocolate bars, with little wells of a chocolate ganache on a buttery, crunchy cookie base. $4 per bar. Petits carrés aux noisettes et chocolat noir / Hazelnuts and dark chocolate biscuit bar.
Petits carrés au caramel, pointe de sel et chocolat au lait / Caramel salt from Guérande and milk chocolate biscuit bar.

Sugar Rush: Ginger Spice and Hazelnut Cake at Duane Park Patisserie. The Ginger is $3...
...and the Hazelnut Cake is $3.50.

Lunch for One: Rubirosa. Black And White Tagliatelle ($16) with Clams, Mussels, Shrimp, and Scallops followed by...
...Tiramisu ($7) for dessert.

Sugar Rush: Buckles and S'mores at Blue Bottle Coffee. These are "Brooklyn Bootleg S'mores" with Mast Brothers Chocolate, house-made graham crackers, and Kings County Distillery moonshine marshmallow ($3).
The fruit filling for the Buckle ($3) changes seasonally, it was pumpkin on my last visit.
Don't forget to pick up the Biscotti Regina ($1) while you're at Blue Bottle. Not just any ol' biscotti, this one has anise seeds, Delaware Phoenix Absinthe, and Salvatore Brooklyn olive oil.

Afternoon Tea: Crosby Street Hotel. $34 a person. The serving above is for two people.
Making our way up from the bottom tier. Four types of sandwiches: smoked salmon and dill; cucumber and butter; egg salad and mustard cress; and roast beef and horseradish. Two types of (gigantic!) scones: plain and lemon-cranberry scones.
Sweets: cocoa tart with fresh berries and lilikoi curd; chocolate brownies with peanut butter mousse and caramel; and red velvet cupcakes with whipped cream cheese frosting.
At the top tier: clotted cream, strawberry jam and orange marmalade.
Sugar Rush: Hot Cinnamon Spice Tea. $8 for a tin of 20 sachets.

Sugar Rush: Li-Lac's Chocolate Cream Rolls From left to right: Mousse Roll ($2.75) - Soft, whipped light chocolate center, decorated with dark chocolate sprinkles; Hazelnut Truffle Roll ($3.50) - Soft milk chocolate hazelnut paste center rolled in almond dust; French Roll ($2.75) - Soft dark chocolate center with chopped walnuts, finished with dark chocolate sprinkles.

Thursday, February 3, 2011

NYC: The Origin of Spaghetti and Meatballs at Otto

Monsieur P often jokes that Otto is our second kitchen because we eat there so frequently. Two seats at the bar, my favourite bartenders in NYC. Prosecco, gelato, cheese (in more than one form), and in-between, dishes we can always count on.

In fact we were just there last night for a late dinner. Breaking from our usual combo of salad + pasta, we decided to do pasta + all the seafood dishes. It's $8 each seafood dish, or $21 for the whole set of five (a really good deal).

Clockwise from bottom center: Anchovies and Breadcrumbs; Mussels, Peperonata, and Mint; Shrimp, Ceci, and Chiles; Calamari and Potatoes; Octopus, Celery, and Lovage.

We were about to order our usual pasta, the Taccozette con Stracotto, when Frank leaned over the bar and casually mentioned that they were serving FRESH PASTA. !!! A truly humongous deal because Otto does not serve fresh pasta. EVER. And this wasn't ordinary fresh pasta, but stuffed pastas. We're talking Agnolotti with Goat Cheese and Ravioli with Tomato and Basil! Can you imagine how excited I was? AHHHHHH!!!!!!! One of each, yes please.

But then I remembered it was Chinese New Years Eve. Tradition dictates that you must eat noodles on the eve for longevity. Short and fat pastas do not qualify. Not tonight. Sigh. I was about to settle on Carbonara when I spotted a nearby diner with an unfamiliar dish.

If there's one thing I know thoroughly, it's the Otto menu. I looked again. Spaghetti. Tomato Sauce. Were those meatballs? Definitely not on the menu. Not a weekly special.

What the heck was it?!

Dennis caught my eye and nodded with a smile, "Spaghetti and Meatballs."
"Is it a special? I haven't seen that before!" I was completely befuddled. Loss of balance. Everything. You name it.

He explained that it was a dish born out of the Wednesday Meatball Pizza Special. You see, Otto serves a special Pizza (and Bruschetta) each day of the week. And Wednesday is Meatball Pizza. One day a customer asked if they would put the meatballs on pasta instead of pizza for him. And tadaahhh, tradition was born. And that how Wednesday Spaghetti and Meatballs came to be. Awesome, right? It's not advertised on the menu, so you just have to know. Slide up to the bar, "spaghetti and meatballs please." With a wink of course. How smoooth! heee.

Just make sure to do it on Wednesdays, otherwise you'll look like an idiot.

Otto
1 Fifth Avenue
NY, NY 10003
(212) 995-9559

Otto on my Flickr
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